Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A-001

2020 is being a difficult year, even for large companies that have seen their production reduced. The big watch brands are not exception. We have already commented in previous articles that several of the great watchmakers had postponed the launch of their new watches, due to Covid 19. The drop in production and the cancellation of the big events where these types of launches are announced altered the plans of Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc.

But, as happens to all of us, it’s time to adapt to the new times, and move on. Accept that it is going to be a different year and try to get positive things out of it. Following this trend,we already saw that Tudor had been encouraged to launch a new model for this year 2020, and that Rolex is expected to do the same in September.

Well, Patek Philippe has not been left behind and has also released new watches and a couple of reinterpretations of existing models throughout the summer.

Patek Philipe Calatrava Limited Edition (REF. 6007A-001)

The first of them has been the new Patek Philippe Calatrava. A special edition of only 1,000 units that has been launched to commemorate the completion of its new production building located in Pan-les-Ouates.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

The new Calatrava 6007A-001 stands out for its 40mm case and its wider polished steel bezel. A rare material in the Patek Philippe collections. A blue-gray dial with a central motif, sapphire crystal and white gold hands.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

Patek Philippe continues its habit of creating watches with great complications. This 5303, which was already released in 2019 with a limited edition of 12 pieces, now goes to the regular collection with a slightly modified design.

Made of rose gold, it stands out for its ‘leaf’ decoration engraved on the sides of the bracelet’s handles. A watch without a dial so that you can see the minute repeater in motion, including, for the first time, hammers and bells. You can also see the tourbillon at the bottom of the watch, at the 6 o’clock position.

Reinterpretations of the 5370P-011 and 5270J001

The Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270 watches have received a reinterpretation.

The Rattrapante modifies its aesthetics with a new blue dial and a polished platinum case. Like the other platinum watches from Patek Philippe, the new 5370P-011 has a small diamond set between the lugs of the bracelet at the 6H position.

The 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is manufactured in yellow gold for the first time. Previously we have seen models of this reference in platinum and rose gold. It is fitted with the CH 29-535 PS Q caliber, which is the first perpetual calendar chronograph movement fully developed and manufactured by Patek Phillipe since 2011.

Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270

Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

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Geneva Seal

Geneva Seal

The Geneva Seal (Sello de Ginebra in Spanish or Poinçon de Genève in French) is an exclusive quality certificate for movements developed in the Swiss region of the Canton of Geneva.

The first statute of the Geneva Seal was created on November 6, 1886. It was created to protect and preserve the reputation of watches created in the Canton of Geneva. It was established that only watches developed and manufactured in the Canton of Geneva could qualify for this quality certificate.

In addition to certifying that watches have been manufactured in the Canton of Geneva, watch movements must pass 12 stages / conditions in order to be certified. The body in charge of evaluating watches is TIMELAB (an organization that is composed of a certification center (including COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) and a center for research and development).

If the watch movement passes all 12 criteria, the watch may bear the stamp mark engraved on the movement.

Currently the brands that usually certify their movements with the Geneva Seal are: Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

Patek Philippe and Geneva Seal

For 123 years Patek Philippe has been the reference and the greatest defender of the Geneva Seal. But in 2009 he decided to stop certifying his watch movements with the Geneva Seal and created his own quality certificate, the Patek Philippe Seal. The seal is represented by a double P emblem.

Patek Philippe decides to create its own seal of quality for not being in accordance with the current standards of the Geneva Seal. Despite the fact that over the years the criteria of the certificate have been updated and adapted to modern watches, the changes came too late.

Apparently, ‘newly’ arrived brands signed up to use the certificate, such as Cartier or Roger Dubuis, apparently they did not sit too well either. Patek Philippe wanted to toughen the demands of the stamp, but in the face of the refusal by the Geneva Stamp offices, he decided to create his own stamp. In this way, the standards that Patek Philippe adopts go further and are more demanding.

Patek Philippe certifies that its watches with a caliber greater than 20mm have a deviation of less than -3 to +2 seconds / day. For those with a caliber less than 20mm, the deviation should not exceed -5 to +4 seconds / day. For calibers with a tourbillonthe requirement is only -2 to +1 seconds / day.

The standard applied by Patek Philippe for its watches is stricter than the one applied by the COSC in the certification of watches (Rolex is the maximum exponent of the watches certified by the COSC), but it is Patek Philippe itself that gives itself to itself. Its own certificate guaranteeing these standards.

Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe Seal

And what about Rolex?

Rolex is another of the brands that do not certify their watches with the Geneva Seal, either by their own decision or by product philosophy. In addition, Rolex movements are manufactured in Bienne, so in principle they would not comply with the obligation to manufacture them within the Canton of Geneva.

Rolex certifies its watches with the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, created in 1973. It is the largest laboratory dedicated to the certification of watches in the world. Rolex is by far the brand that has certified the most watches with the COSC. The certificate guarantees that the watch has a deviation of less than -4 to +6 seconds / day. Watches that meet this minimum deviation of -4 to +6 seconds / day are certified as ‘Chronometers’ and can have it engraved on their dial. Other brands such as Omega or Breitling also certify their watches with the COSC. Although COSC is the largest laboratory in the world for the certification of watches and certifies one million watches every year, they represent 3% of the watches manufactured annually in Switzerland.

Genève written on the dial

Regardless of the Geneva Seal, some watches have Genèvewritten on their dial. To be able to include Genève on the dial, the watch must be manufactured entirely in Switzerland, and at least 50% of its manufacture must be made in the Canton of Geneva. The Bureau de contrôle des Montres de Genève is the body in charge of certifying and validating the use of this inscription on the watch.

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2020 is being a difficult year for the big watch brands. Due to the worldwide pandemic of Covid 19, production chains had to be reduced or stopped completely. According to experts, the recession could last for years and be longer than expected. Faced with an incipient economic crisis, the market for luxury items such as high-end watches has exploded. Luxury watches are a safe value to invest in, not only for the manufacturing materials such as gold, platinum, diamonds … but also for the added value of being collectibles, often limited editions. Faced with a volatile market, not only do they retain their value, but they can even increase it.

As we already commented in our article regarding the Covid and the second-hand market, this volatile market situation, plus the lack of stock of new watches due to the stoppage of manufacturing, have also brought price increases in some models of watches.

Demand goes up and stock is limited, so prices rise.

This has not been the case at WatchesNorte, where not only have we not raised prices, but we are also offering collector’s pieces at more than competitive prices. You can see our stock on our website or on Chrono 24.

As we already mentioned, Baselworld, the fair in which the great watchmakers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc. announce the new models they will launch, was canceled this year 2020. And despite the fact that Rolex initially announced that its 2020 models would go on the market throughout April 2020, they were finally canceled and everything boded that there would be no new models this year 2020.

However, in July Tudor (Rolex’s ‘low cost’ brand) announced a new model, the Tudor Black Bay fifty-Eight Navy Blue. This could indicate that there is still hope for new Rolex models throughout 2020.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 'Navy Blue'

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ (Source:

So can we expect a new Rolex model for this year?

The rumor circulating on the network says that the new Rolex models will be launched the first week of September 2020. We do not know if this will be the case or not, but if so, what models could they advertise? A new Submariner model? Maybe a Milgauss? New ceramic models?

Be that as it may, pay attention to our publications because we will tell you everything here.

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